Wednesday, April 20, 2016

The Final Chapter

As my fellow Gamecocks only begin to think of finals, I’ve already landed back at home ready for the summer.  Preparing to leave Casablanca was like snapping back into reality and realizing I didn’t actually live and study full time in Morocco.  Study abroad is full of new places, learning experiences, and many mishaps, but once you’ve settled in everything gains a sense of normality again.  Almost like a nerve ending that stops sending signals once it gets used to touching something, your brain eventually stops getting excited over every new thing around you.

This “new normal” as some other study abroaders have called it is almost harder to snap out of going back home than when you arrive in your host country.  Before going abroad you prepare for all of the differences you might encounter and plan out how you’ll adapt when you arrive.  However when going home you give less thought to the reverse culture shock you’ll encounter in the U.S. besides counting down the days to having Chipotle or Chick-Fil-A again.

There are a lot of things that will be hard to leave behind in Morocco besides friends, the weather, and home for the last three months.  My wallet will miss Moroccan prices and how cheap it is to go out and travel.  If you’re looking to save while studying abroad, Morocco is one of the best places to go, plus you can see Europe without breaking the bank.  I’ll miss the accessibility of Morocco’s landscape and being able to go from the beach to snow-capped mountains to the Sahara all in a day’s journey.  Morocco’s cities also offer a clash of scenery that will be hard to leave behind.  Their modern areas mixed with old medinas provided endless entertainment and adventure.

After arriving in the U.S., I had to keep reminding myself that English was the default language and to stop trying to translate what people were saying.  While many people in Morocco speak English, it was nice to travel in a place where French was the second language and easier to practice as a tourist than in some western countries.  Speaking was also less intimidating thanks to how welcoming and forgiving Moroccans were even if you didn’t speak Arabic or French, which can also be hard to find in other countries. 

I have to say that there some things I won't be sad to leave behind as well.  Sexism was more prevalent and open in Morocco than what I've experienced in the U.S.  I would find myself bracing for comments from men passing by in the streets or try not to smile because more often than not a stranger would comment on it as he walked by. Experiencing this heightened marginalization made me realize how dehumanizing sexism and other attacks on minorities really are. Sometimes we don't recognize the harm of everyday discrimination in our own country, especially if we are privileged enough not to experience it, but it’s difficult to criticize another place for its faults without also looking in the mirror.

Another example of this was LGBT issues. Just after leaving, I read a report that a gay couple was beaten in their home and arrested for their sexual orientation in a town in central Morocco. Morocco has far to go in creating legal and social freedoms for LGBT individuals, women, and weeding out corruption, among other issues, but it was important to see that the general causes of discrimination and daily micro aggressions were the same as what I’ve seen in the U.S. and other developed countries.

With the good and the bad, going to Morocco was the best international experience and immersion that I’ve ever had.  Meeting students from all over the world and living in North Africa taught me lots and was just plain fun.  I’d like to thank the ESCA Ecole of Management for hosting me and making my time in Morocco so easy and enjoyable, as well as all of the students and friends who welcomed us and made us feel at home.  I would recommend Morocco to any student or traveler, and hope to be back soon.

And last but not least, many thanks to you for following the saga of Couscous, Camels, Casablanca, or at least skipping to the end to witness the final dramatic conclusion.  I hope you enjoyed it and learned from it, and if you are a book publisher I am certainly willing to talk about book deals or future movie signings. 

Here's to S'Moroccan stories in the future.

بسلامة,
À bientôt,
Until next time,


Stefanie

  

Saturday, March 26, 2016

The Sahara

Water? Check.  Scarves? Check.  Emergency Oreos? Double check.

We were stopped at the last supply store before entering the Sahara on our two day journey into the desert, and taking in as much of the Bear Grylls-esque scenario ast we could.  Never mind that we would be in the desert for less than 24 hours and had selfie sticks, we were ready for survival.

After finding out we wouldn't be running into many camels in Casablanca, I was ready to book a tour to the south of Morocco within the first week, but cold temperatures and high risks of sand storms through January and February meant that we would have to wait until the spring. Desert tours begin in Marrakesh and run through snow capped Atlas mountains, Ouarzazate, and Ait Ben Haddou. Snow is quite a sight to see on your way to the desert, especially after leaving Casablanca's 70 degree temperatures. The three hours of twisting and turning through mountain passes kept my eyes glued straight out of the van windshield, but the view of high mountains and snow made up for the twisting and turning of my insides. After exiting the Atlas, the landscape quickly descended into flat and dry land that could have been Arizona or New Mexico if it weren't for the "Camel Crossing" signs and camels grazing on the side of the road.

We then made a stop in Ouarzazate and Ait Ben Haddou where shows and movies like Gladiator, The Mummy, and Game of Thrones were filmed, and where trusted sources say it can get up to 122 degrees Farenheit in the summer. 


Finally made it to a Moroccan Mcdonald’s.  If you’re abroad and there’s a McDonald’s nearby, definitely go try it, not only to fulfill your duties as an American tourist, but also to see the differences in the menu and style from country to country.  Featured here is a halal certified BigMac and McFondue.


Sunset over the Djemâa el Fna marketplace in Marrakesh.  Despite having already visited, we couldn’t resist spending the day going through the medina and marketplace again.



Ait Ben Haddou and Game of Thrones fan heaven.  Temperatures thankfully hadn’t hit 122 degrees yet, but instead were a nice 75 and sunny.



Inside Ait Ben Haddou which has the feel of going back to biblical times.  Most of the residents live outside of the old city, but there are four families that still live in and maintain it. 


Our fearless desert crew at the top of Ait Ben Haddou.


And an unimpeded view from the top.


The Berber or Amazigh people were the first in Morocco and much of North Africa.  This symbol on the door is the sign of Berber speakers and can been seen throughout many Berber towns in the Atlas mountains and southern Morocco.  Berber is not yet an official language, but many people are fighting for its recognition.


Entering the Sahara. 






Hiking one of the sand dunes near the camp before sunset.  They’re much bigger and steeper up close than they would appear from afar, but the view is well worth the climb. 


Golden Oreos: Official snack of the Sahara


Dinner was served in the main tent insulated from the cold night by blankets and carpet.  Afterwards the guides played Berber music with drums and guitars that almost chanted you to sleep after a full meal of chicken tajine and fruit for dessert. Laying outside in the evening we had five think blankets over us just to stay warm, but seeing the star-filled sky was worth the cold toes.


Early morning rise to get back on the camels and ride out.


Catching the sunrise.


The nobel steed.